Grand Canyon Expedition

About 2 years ago, my mom (SE) expressed interest in hiking the Grand Canyon.  Having never seen the GC other than in a flight over from Vegas many years ago, she wanted to experience it first hand.  I agreed to organize the trip and sent out a message to our entire extended family to see who else was interested in going.  We had one taker, my mom's brother (RA). 

So the three of us looked at our schedules and picked out a couple of options.  Since they were coming from out of town, we needed to make our reservations 12 months in advance.  On September 1, 2010, I called the reservation hotline at around 9 am.  Phantom Ranch was sold out.  Entire month of September 2011.  I made a mental note to try again on October 1, only I set my alarm to be on the phone by 6 am when they opened.

On October 1, 2010 I made our reservations.  2 night at Phantom Ranch.  We would start our hike on the North Rim, hike down the North Kaibab to Phantom Ranch, and then hike out on the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim.  We had one year to prepare.  Mom got busy training.  In preparation for our trip she hiked Haleakala on Maui, Mt. Elbert in Colorado, and in the mountains of Tahoe.  She came prepared with proper hiking boots (which she had broken in and used on all her previous hiking trips), hiking poles, and gear.  And most importantly, she showed up with a positive attitude. 

Fast forward one year.  Everyone convenes in Phoenix.  We have an early wake up call, toss our gear in the back of the Xterra and hit the road.  After a quick stop in Paradise Valley to pick up RA, we are on the road headed toward the South Rim. 

We walked along the rim a little, bought some souvenirs, and had lunch.  We had a 1:30 shuttle to take us to the North Rim where we would spend the night before beginning our trek.  After a long drive through the desert, we arrived at the lodge just as the sun was setting. 

We enjoyed a fabulous dinner, complete with pie for dessert, and hit the racks.  We were meeting the shuttle driver at 5:15 am for a ride to the trail head. 

The air was chilly at 5:30 am.  With headlamps on, we hit the North Kaibab Trail.  My mom had never used a headlamp and it was a little slow going for the first 45 minutes until the sun was up.  But we were loving the crisp air, and the sound of the breeze through the trees.  When the sun rose in the sky the colors in the canyon were amazing!

We switchbacked down the trail for about 7-8 miles.  Once you reach the bottom, it's another 6-7 miles to Phantom Ranch on mostly flat ground through a side canyon.  The sky was overcast which was nice, it was plenty warm without the sun beating down on us.  We even got a little rain shower when we neared our destination.  We stopped several times along the way to eat, rest and soak our feet in the chilly waters. 

We arrived at Phantom Ranch at 3:30 pm.  10 hours on our feet.  We checked into our dormitory, showered and lined up for dinner at 5 pm.  We ate as if we'd never seen food before.  Steak, salad, corn bread, veggies, baked potatoes, and chocolate cake.  Well fed, we fell into a deep sleep at 6:30 pm. 

On Sunday morning, we hiked down to the river after breakfast for a little sight seeing.  We hiked across the bridge to the start of the South Kaibab Trail.  We took some photos and checked out the map.  We watched rafters float by down the river.  It was a relaxing morning, followed by even more relaxation. 

After noon, SE and RA decided to take a nap.  That was my opportunity to explore a little bit.  I found a trail head just outside of Phantom Ranch for the Clear Creek Trail.  I headed up the side of the canyon for about 45 minutes.  Several points along the way I could look back and see Phantom Ranch far below me.  Finally, I began to wrap around the canyon wall I was climbing and had stunning views in both directions.  The trail narrowed significantly and I found myself on a very narrow dirt path which slanted ever so slightly toward the drop off.  I began to panic a little bit (I have a fear of heights) and after assessing the situation (the trail didn't widen again any time soon) I decided that this would be my turn around point. 

I very slowly turned with my back to the cliff, trying not to look down.  When I was faced outward, I glanced down ever so slightly and gasped at the most amazing view of the canyon I had ever seen.  I sat down on a rock and just took it all in for about 15-20 minutes.  To my right, way down in the canyon was the bridge we had crossed early that day.  Straight across from me was the South Kaibab Trail switchbacking up the canyon wall.  And the craggy cliffs lining the carved out canyon reminded me of the Napali Coastline on Kauai.  Stunning. 

I hesitated to post photos because they absolutely do not do it justice.  The sun was bright and my camera doesn't handle the bright sunlight well.  The photos are too washed out.  But you can at least get a sense of the terrain. 

After enjoying the view and solitude, I hiked back down to Phantom Ranch.  I woke my mom up from her nap and we walked back down to the river to soak our legs in the cold water.  We followed our "ice bath" with some cold beers in the cantina before dinner.  Once again we were in bed early with a 3:45 am wake up call. 

On Monday morning, we hit the Bright Angel Trail at 4:30 am.  We had a long hike out of the canyon and we wanted to get an early start to avoid any potential heat.  The first several miles of the hike wind along the river on relatively flat ground.  By the time we began the real climb, the sun was up and once again we were amazed with one incredible view after another.  Every turn in the trail was another opportunity to enjoy our amazing environment. 

We reached the half way point at 3 1/2 hours into the hike.  Indian Garden provided a nice rest area and we paused to eat, drink and relax.  From there, we had stops every 1 1/2 miles until the top.  There were water stops at 3 miles to go, 1 1/2 miles to go.  My mom was doing great and my uncle was sticking with her every step of the way, so I chose to hike at a more aggressive pace and stopped to wait for them at the rest areas.  By the time I reached 1 1/2 miles to go the clouds were rolling in and I was getting chilly.  I was somewhere above 6000 ft at this point.  I changed into a long sleeve top and told them I'd meet them at the trail head on the rim.  I hauled butt out of the canyon, arriving at the rim minutes before a storm broke out. 

I found some cover under a tree and changed into warmer clothes.  I waited until the rain stopped and then made my way to the overlook so I could watch for them on the last few switchbacks.  When I saw them nearing the top, I hiked back down the trail to meet them.  We took a few last photos and celebrated our accomplishment.  We reached the rim at about 1:15 pm. 

It was a long drive back to the valley.  We stopped for lunch of pizza and beer and chatted about what an amazing thing the Grand Canyon is and how lucky we are to have explored it.  Very few people who visit the Grand Canyon actually visit Phantom Ranch.  We can say that we made it to the bottom and back out. 

My mom did an amazing job.  Hiking the Grand Canyon is rigorous and not something that can be entered into lightly.  Every year people die in the canyon, and even more are rescued.  Preparation is key, and attitude is everything.  My mom smiled the entire way.  She never uttered one negative word.  Didn't complain about anything, and at 63 years of age, I'm sure she had aches and pains that warranted complaint.  She was happy to be there and was up for anything. 

I think she got to experience a little taste of what any endurance athlete faces.  When the adventure is over, you are left with an empty feeling.  What's next?  You spend so much time and energy getting to the adventure, that when it's over, it is anticlimactic.  No one will really understand what you've been through, except those that were there with you.  You have to go back to your real life.  You share photos and stories, but it's hard for those in the outside world to really comprehend. 

To that note, I would say, Mom, I'm with you.  I remember.  And I'm ready to go again.  Just say the word.  I'm sure she's already planning her next adventure.  I just hope I get to go with her.